GE Dryer Purple Heater Wire Replacement

Pull the dryer out far enough to comfortably access the rear of the cabinet.

Use a 1/4 inch hex driver to remove the two bottom rear screws, one on each side.

Push the console top rearward until both rear corners pop loose, using a firm tap if needed.

Rock the console up onto the top of the dryer.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two rear console screws, one on each side.

Slot the console tabs into the lid, roll the lid down, and tap the console into place so it locks to the lid.

Open the dryer door.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws tucked under the top front edge of the cabinet.

Roll the lid back toward the wall and rest it using the console top as a support.

Use a 1/4 inch hex driver to remove the two front screws, one on each side of the cabinet.

Disconnect the door light switch harness at the upper left if the model has one.

Move the plastic cover aside, press the connector tab, and unplug the door switch harness from the door switch housing.

Set the door aside away from the work area.

Reach behind the blower motor housing to find the idler pulley.

Use a hand to pull the idler pulley to the right and rest it on the motor-mount tab to hold the tension released.

Slip the belt off the idler pulley and off the motor pulley.

Pull the drum out of the cabinet.

Locate the purple heater wire on the heater pan and disconnect it from the heater pan terminal.

Use wire cutters to remove the plastic cable tie from the chassis, or use needle-nose pliers to pop it out from the rear if possible.

Remove the two or three tape wraps that bundle the purple wire into the main wire trunk.

Press the motor harness connector tabs and unplug the harness from the motor.

Insert a small flathead screwdriver from the wire side of the housing, press down the retainer tab, and work the terminal out of the housing.

Push the terminal forward while holding the tab down if pulling it rearward isn’t working.

Cut the terminal off with wire cutters after it’s pushed through if that makes it easier to fully remove the old wire from the housing.

Inspect the heater pan terminal where the purple wire attaches.

Sand the terminal with sandpaper if it shows burn marks or degradation.

Slide the new purple wire terminal from the WE49X37037 kit onto the heater pan terminal.

Press the wire into the chassis hole where the original wire routed through.

Use needle-nose pliers to press the terminal on firmly if needed.

Attach the purple wire back to the main harness trunk and secure it with a high-temperature cable tie or electrical tape.

Rewrap the wire trunk with two or three new strips of electrical tape where the original tape was removed.

Insert the new purple wire terminal into the motor harness housing until it clicks and locks in place.

Plug the motor harness back into the motor and confirm the top and bottom clips are fully seated.

Pull the idler pulley over and rest it on the motor-mount tab to hold tension off the belt.

Set the belt on the rear belt groove of the drum.

Slide the drum into the cabinet using the belt as a handle, and seat the rear drum bearing straight into the rear bearing housing.

Turn the drum slightly to confirm it’s seated without obstructions or unusual noises.

Wrap the belt around the motor pulley, release the idler pulley to tension the belt, and confirm the belt tracks correctly.

Turn the drum by hand and confirm the blower housing moves with it.

Set the bottom of the door onto the three hinge fingers on the chassis and pivot the door toward the bulkhead.

Move the plastic cover aside and reconnect the door switch harness connector.

Seat the drum front bearing onto the door frame, and align the metal tabs on the door and chassis so the cabinet sits square.

Use a 1/4 inch hex driver to install the two short screws at the top left and top right of the front panel.

Reconnect the door light harness if it was unplugged.

Bring the top panel forward and snap it into place on the cabinet.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the two long screws at the top of the door opening to secure the top to the front cabinet.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the two rear cabinet screws, one on each side.

Slot the six console fingers into their holes, pivot the console into place, and tap the rear of the console to lock it.

Use a 1/4 inch hex driver to install the two top console screws, one on the left and one on the right.