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Hotpoint Dryer Purple Heater Wire Replacement

Video Guide
This guide was transcribed from a YouTube video.

What you need

    • Unplug the dryer before starting any disassembly.

    • If the plug isn’t accessible, turn off the dryer breaker and confirm the dryer won’t power on.

    • Move the dryer so you can access the rear of the unit.

    • Wear work gloves and long sleeves to protect against sharp sheet-metal edges.

    • Use a 1/4 inch hex driver to remove the two bottom rear screws, one on each side.

    • Push the console top rearward to pop it loose.

    • Tap the console rearward with a fist on each side if it’s stuck.

    • Rock the console up toward the top of the dryer once both rear corners release.

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two rear console screws, one per side.

    • Slot the console’s front tabs into the lid.

    • Roll the lid down, then tap it into place to lock the console back into the lid.

    • This keeps the console attached so the lid can lift without removing extra parts.

    • Open the dryer door.

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws hidden under the top front lip.

    • Roll the lid gently toward the wall, and rest the lid using the console against the wall.

    • If there’s no wall nearby, prop the lid securely so it can’t fall.

    • Put on gloves and long sleeves before reaching into the cabinet.

    • Use a 1/4 inch hex driver to remove the two hex-head screws on the left and right sides of the dryer.

    • Disconnect the door light switch harness at the top left if the model has one.

    • Lift the door up to release it from the three metal fingers at the bottom of the chassis.

    • Support the door close to the dryer because the door lock harness is very short.

    • Move the plastic cover aside, press the connector tab, and unplug the door lock harness.

    • Rest the door on a heavy box or support it at an angle if you need access from the rear to unplug the harness.

    • Move the door away from the unit after unplugging the harness.

    • Reach behind the blower motor housing to access the idler pulley.

    • Use a right hand to pull the idler pulley to the right to release belt tension.

    • Rest the idler pulley on the small tab on the motor mount to hold it in the released position.

    • Remove the belt from the idler pulley.

    • Move the belt away from the motor mount pulley so it can’t snag when pulling the drum out.

    • Avoid sliding bare forearms along the cabinet edges, the blower housing, and the heating pan.

    • Keep gloves on while routing wires and handling the drum area.

    • Locate the purple heater wire on the heating pan and disconnect it from the heater pan terminal.

    • Cut the plastic cable tie securing the harness to the chassis using side snips.

    • Pop the cable tie off from the rear with needle-nose pliers if it will release without cutting.

    • Cut the additional cable tie on the left side if present.

    • Cut carefully because the harness trunk contains multiple wires.

    • Remove the two or three runs of electrical tape that bundle the purple wire into the harness trunk.

    • Press the locking tabs and unplug the motor harness connector from the motor.

    • The connector has tabs on the underside as well as the top.

    • Take a photo and note the orientation of the purple wire and the harness tab so the new wire installs the same way.

    • Insert a flathead screwdriver from the wire side of the plastic housing and press down the retainer tab.

    • Push the terminal forward while holding the tab down if pulling it out doesn’t work.

    • Use a smaller flathead screwdriver if you can’t reach the tab cleanly.

    • Cut the terminal off the old purple wire with wire cutters, then pull the wire fully out of the housing.

    • Inspect the heater pan terminal for burning or metal degradation.

    • Sand the terminal with sandpaper if it’s discolored or lightly burnt.

    • A loose connection can cause repeat wire burn-up, and heavy burning may require heater pan replacement.

    • Install the new purple wire terminal onto the heater pan tab from the WE49X37037 kit.

    • Press the wire into the hole on the dryer chassis to route it the same way as the original.

    • Make sure the heater terminal connection is very snug to prevent overheating.

    • Use needle-nose pliers to press the terminal tighter if needed.

    • Reattach the purple wire to the main harness trunk and secure it with a high-temperature cable tie.

    • Use electrical tape to bind the harness trunk if needed.

    • Wrap the harness trunk with electrical tape where you removed it earlier, using two or three new strips.

    • Insert the new purple wire terminal into the motor harness connector housing in the same orientation as the original.

    • Push until it snaps and locks with a click, and confirm it won’t pull back out easily.

    • Plug the motor harness connector back into the motor until both the top and bottom clips engage.

    • If the wire isn’t fully seated in the housing, it can pop out when you reconnect the motor harness.

    • Pull the idler pulley over and rest it on the motor mount tab so it’s ready for belt installation.

    • Place the belt on the rear groove of the drum where it previously rode.

    • Slide the drum into place by the belt and seat the rear drum bearing straight into the rear bearing housing.

    • Turn the drum slightly to confirm it’s seated and there are no obstructions or unusual noises.

    • Wrap the belt around the motor pulley, release the idler pulley tension, and confirm the belt tracks correctly.

    • Gently rotate the drum and verify the blower housing moves with it, showing the belt is engaged.

    • Set the bottom of the door onto the three metal fingers on the chassis, then pivot the door forward into place.

    • Support the door so it can’t tip forward while reconnecting the short door lock harness.

    • Move the plastic cover aside and plug the door switch harness back in.

    • Align the internal metal tabs on the door and chassis so the front assembly seats correctly.

    • Seat the drum bearing onto the door frame, adjusting the drum if needed to help it sit correctly.

    • Use a 1/4 inch hex driver to reinstall the two short screws at the top left and top right sides.

    • Reconnect the door light switch harness if the model has one.

    • Bring the top panel forward and snap it into place on the chassis.

    • Plug the dryer in and run a quick test to confirm the dryer heats and runs without unusual noise.

    • Unplug the dryer again before continuing reassembly.

    • If it still doesn’t heat, recheck the harness connections and the new wire seating in the connector housing.

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to reinstall the two long screws at the top of the dryer door opening to secure the top to the front cabinet.

    • Reinstall the two identical rear screws, one on the left and one on the right.

    • Reconnect any wires you unplugged during disassembly.

    • Slot the six console fingers into their matching holes.

    • Pivot the console into position, then tap the rear of the console forward to lock it in place.

    • Use a 1/4 inch hex driver to install the two top screws that go down through the console into the metal top.

Conclusion

If the new purple wire burns again, inspect the heater pan terminal for heavy heat damage and make sure the terminal fit is tight. Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

Ben Schlichter

Member since: 01/21/25

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224 Guides authored

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