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How to Troubleshoot a Kenmore Electric Dryer That Won't Heat

Video Guide
This guide was transcribed from a YouTube video.

Introduction

If a Kenmore electric dryer runs but doesn’t heat, the cause is often loss of 240 V power to the dryer or a failed safety device in the heating circuit. This guide walks you through confirming the dryer style, checking the supply voltage with a multimeter, opening the cabinet, and testing the main heating components so you can identify what needs to be replaced.

What you need

  1. Edit

    • Check whether the dryer has a lint screen housing at the top of the cabinet near the door opening.

    • This style is commonly used on Kenmore electric dryers built on a Whirlpool-style platform, and the access and testing steps below match that layout.

    • If the lint screen layout is different, use the same testing ideas, but expect the cabinet disassembly to differ.

  2. Edit

    • Gather a 6-in-1 screwdriver with 1/4 inch and 5/16 inch nut drivers, a multimeter, and a putty knife.

    • Use a drill with nut driver bits if you want to remove screws faster.

    • Wear work gloves and safety glasses to protect against sharp sheet-metal edges.

  3. Edit

    • Unplug the dryer or switch off the dryer breaker before removing any covers.

    • Remove the small terminal block cover on the back of the dryer to expose the power cord connections.

    • Keep hands clear of the terminals when power is restored for testing.

  4. Edit

    • Restore power and set the multimeter to measure AC volts.

    • Measure from the first hot leg to neutral and confirm about 120 V.

    • Measure from the second hot leg to neutral and confirm about 120 V.

    • Measure between the two hot legs and confirm about 240 V.

    • If the hot-to-hot reading is much less than 200 V, the problem is likely the house power, breaker, or power cord, not the dryer’s heating components.

    • Reset the breaker fully by switching it off and back on if voltage is missing on either leg.

    • Unplug the dryer or switch off the breaker again before continuing.

  5. Edit

    • Use a nut driver to remove about eight screws securing the back panel.

    • Lift the back panel off to expose the heating system and its sensors.

    • Handle the panel carefully because the edges can be sharp.

  6. Edit

    • Locate the heating element housing and the thermostats and fuses attached to the heating system.

    • Pay attention to each component name and location so you order the correct replacement part if one fails.

    • Diagram: [Back of dryer] Terminal block cover (top-center) → Heater housing (right side) → Sensors mounted on or near the heater housing.

  7. Edit

    • Set the multimeter to continuity mode or to resistance if your meter doesn’t have a continuity buzzer.

    • Take a photo of the wire locations before removing any connectors.

    • Pull at least one spade connector off the component being tested.

    • Testing with both spade connectors attached can backfeed through wiring and give a false “good” reading.

  8. Edit

    • Touch the multimeter probes to the thermostat terminals and check for continuity.

    • Continuity means the thermostat is good, and an open loop reading means the thermostat is bad.

  9. Edit

    • Remove the spade connectors from the heating element terminals.

    • Check the heating element terminals for continuity.

    • Switch to resistance and confirm the element reads about 10 ohms, which may take a few seconds to stabilize on the meter.

  10. Edit

    • Place one probe on a heating element spade terminal and place the other probe on the metal heater housing.

    • A good element shows no continuity to the housing, and continuity indicates the element is grounded and the heater assembly needs replacement.

  11. Edit

    • Test the two cycling thermostat terminals with the red wires for continuity because they control the primary heat function.

    • Test the two cycling thermostat terminals with the purple wires using resistance because they control delicate or lower heat settings.

    • A typical acceptable resistance range for the purple-wire terminals is about 3.6k to 7.2k ohms, and a reading drastically outside that range suggests replacement.

  12. Edit

    • Test the high limit cutoff, sometimes called the thermal fuse, for continuity.

    • Replace the high limit cutoff if it reads open, and strongly consider replacing the matching thermostat near the heating element at the same time.

    • Inspect the blower housing and the vent pipe for excessive lint and clean them to prevent overheating and repeat failures.

  13. Edit

    • Unplug the dryer before opening the control area.

    • Insert a putty knife into the seam between the top and the chassis at the far left side and push in hard to release the spring clip.

    • Release the spring clip on the far right side, then roll the top forward to lift the console for easier timer access.

    • Disconnect the left harness and leave the right harness in place.

    • Set the timer to a high heat setting and check the three specified timer contacts for continuity.

    • If any of the three contacts read open on high heat, the timer is bad.

  14. Edit

    • Reconnect every wire to its original terminal using your photo as a reference.

    • Reinstall the console and the rear panel, then restore power and run a timed high heat cycle to confirm the dryer heats.

    • If the timer and heating circuit test good, look for a loose wire connection or model-specific modules such as a heat relay or belt switch.

Conclusion

No-heat problems are often electrical supply issues, a blown high limit cutoff, or a failed heating element. After any repair, clean lint from the airflow path and make sure the vent to the outside is clear to prevent overheating and repeat failures.

Author

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Ben Schlichter

Member since: 01/21/25

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